Friday, December 24, 2010
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Friday, December 17, 2010
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Raph is doing a last second check of the anchor as Steve leans back. I kinda like the look on his face.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Sunday, December 5, 2010
It doesn't look like we're getting snow anytime soon, at least not here on the east side of the Rockies, so this might be something to keep the frustration level at a minimum.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Friday, November 19, 2010
Saturday, November 13, 2010
A-The flame turns blue proj. 37m
B-Dream Machine 5.11, 40m (60m rope works when lowering to mid anchor)
C-Wet Dream 5.11+, 20m or 42m into B
D-Halloween parade 5.10+, 17m
E-Zeitgeist 5.12+, 30m or 45m into F
F-The show must go on 5.13-, 45m (60m rope works to lower to Zeitgeist anchor)
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Saturday, October 30, 2010
This is already old news, but I thought I post it here as a bit of a defence of David Lamas actions on the Compressor route of Cerro Torre. I am also impressed with Davids blog, well worthwhile reading. This guy evolved from a pure gym climber, winning pretty much anything on plastic before he had the first signs of pubic hairs, to a great all rounder in the mountains. Don't underestimate the guy, I'm sure we will hear lots of him in the future.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Right now I'm sitting at the lodge, struggling with Power Point in preparing a presentation for guides training on last winters helicopter accident. I would like to share the picture below with you, all I can say is the 3 passengers walked away with no scratch, which is quite unbelievable. There was definitely a bit of alcohol involved that evening.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Saturday, October 16, 2010
And then there is always the family, I know I have not been the best dad and husband lately, too much caught up in my own goals. I'll sure try to make up for this selfishness as soon the weather craps out for good ...does this sound like selfish again? But first I have to endure a 5 day first Aid refreshers indoors with the best weather forecast imaginable, oh would I love to go to the Ghost for a few days and do some of those grand multi pitch lines.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Kurt on "Fight Gravity", a 5.12 free solo in the mid eighties, when most people did not even know of the existence of hard routes like that.
Kurt was always involved in the evolution of climbing. He started with the age of 14 with hard Aid, then painted red points at the bottom of old established Aid routes as a sign that they have been free climbed. He was a top boulderer in the late 70ties, when the world boulder did not even exist in Europe. He made countless rock climbing trips around the world, climbed the first 12+ on the big dolomite faces in the eighties, made ground breaking first ascents all over the world, like Royal Flush on Fitz Roy, Raiders of Storm in the Paine and Eternal Flame on Trango, to just name a few.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Here are my suggestions for the grade, a little different than Will, but he also mentioned that he had a hard time with the grading after having spend so much time on the wall. P1/5.10+, P2/5.12+, P3/5.11+, P4/5.12-, P5/5.12-, P6/5.12, P7/5.12, P8/5.11+. Although the grading is not super hard, it is still demanding until 5 meters below the rim. Despite the overhanging nature of the route, the climbing is very varied and most of the cruxes are actually quite technical. We used 13 draws (some back cleaning), a 60m lead line and a 50m twin rope to haul the little bag and to rappel "Lord of the rings" afterwards. On P2 we left 3 hard to clip draws in place to make it easier for repeat attempts, please leave them there, it's for a good cause.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
After weeks of bad weather we had some wintery conditions to deal with. Lot's of snow on the approach and on the few ledges on the route. Like the last time, we opted to rappel the nearby "Lord of the Rings", which paid of big time and saved us from hiking down in the snow on the back side.
Above you can see Derek leading out of the morning mist into the roofs of pitch 2.
From the belay ledge after pitch 3 you climb 3 pitches in a row through the upper roofs. 12a/b/12b/12c and after that (picture below) a 35m vertical crimp and search fest which is hard to rate and to memorize, feels like another 12c. This second last pitch has probably some of the finest rock Yumnaska has to offer, and the exposure is unbeatable. It is mid afternoon by now and all the snow below on the approach slopes from this morning has melted of already.The view from the parking lot in the morning versus the evening, it's amazing how much a nice day of sun can do to the snow.
Now it's time for me to put in my first red point attempt, I'm looking forward to the challenge and hope I don't have to wait another 50 days for it. My time is running out soon, got to go back to work in October. If anyone is keen to go up there with me, please let me know, you will not regret it.