Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Silent Auction

The next logical step of new multi pitch route development in the Bow Valley is done. 
It did require a man with a vision, the workhorse with the keen eye for a good line, Greg Toss. 
The cleaning of 8 pitches of steep limestone and placing well over a hundred bolts, predominantly in Winter in one of the shadiest places our neighborhood has to offer, was needed to create his new route "Silent Auction". 
Good job, Greg, and don't forget to donate to TABVAR! to keep our sport safe.
...and buy Greg a coffee or two
if you spot him in one of the many coffee shops Canmore has to offer.
About a week ago I had the pleasure to climb it with Derek, just in time before I have to leave for Europe and Derek and Michelle got their cute little baby Sadie. Monsoon season had started in the Rockies but this route stays mostly dry due to it's steepness and lack of seepage. We swapped leads on the way up and decided to rappel the route. Using a 50m lead rope and a 50m half rope for hauling a small pack proved to be very convenient for the way down. 
The route is best done on a hot day in the morning, or a colder day as an afternoon outing. 
A 10min drive, 1hour walk and several hours of exitement, go do it!

Derek Galloway on the crux second pitch,
which gives access to the journey through the yellow ceiling above.

pitch four

the first pitch of the lunch ledge half way up was our favorite one.
Face climbing, steep corner, exposed arete and back to a corner to finish on a juggy overhang.

More rock to be developed across the route.

the route description from Greg,
we thought the second pitch is a bit harder than stated above

mixed climbing for the future, or should we leave it for the rock climbers?

a perfect arete way up on Grotto Mountain

on the approach just past the "Playground"
Silent auction tackles the steep wall to the right of the tree

a perfect knee bar offers a welcome rest on pitch seven,
the sun hits the wall by 3.30 at this time of the year