Friday, October 30, 2015

bolted multi pitching close to Canmore

Simon on his (and Ross Suchi's) new multi pitch in the south ghost called "Booty Loader"
7 pitches of sweet climbing up the right side of the Wild West Wall
Now that the rock climbing season is almost over I get to reflect on the perfect climbing conditions way back in May. Although it was technically spring according to the calendar, it felt more like Summer in the Rockies. After a nearly perfect Summer and Fall most climbers, including myself, almost forgot how good it was in that rather typically rainy time of the year.
This gave me a chance to hop on some of the north facing objectives close to town which are usually reserved for the Summer, where I usually roam around in the Alps.
One of the best bolted multi pitch sport routes above Canmore is certainly "The Temptress" in Echo Canyon. 3 long pitches of sustained 5.12 climbing lead to the upper 13b crux pitch, which is even longer. Excellent steep rock and quality climbing, a landmark route put up lead soloing by my friend Derek Galloway. A must do for everyone who can master the grade. I certainly did not master it at all but that gives me a reason to go back for some fine tuning. Not a bad project since I can see my house from every belay.
Simon Meis entering the crux moves of the first pitch, 12d 
higher on the 45m long first pitch, sustained 12a climbing on a steep face
the finish of the 3rd pitch, the orange rock is bomber
A few days later we found our next goal on the other side of town, the shaded north face of Ha Ling, formerly known as Chinaman's peak. Another friend and climbing partner of mine, Jeff Relph, put up a completely independed 12 pitch line between Rememberance Wall and Premature Ejaculation a few Summers back. It resulted in the hardest line on the wall and has a smart mix of bolts and gear wherever you can place it. A very worthwhile outing in the lower 5.12 grade, but not one to be underestimated due to it's length and taxing climbing on not always perfect rock.
Here a a few impressions from 
"A particular Manner of Expression"
Simon on the last pitch, a 50m 12-
lower on the wall with the big corner of Premature Ejaculation behind

the easier climbing is quite run out and not always easy to navigate
nice, steep corners that protect well, a rarity in the Rockies

While I was gone to Europe Greg Toss finished up his line to the left of "Tall Storey", sounds like a must do route with 4 long pitches up to 12-.
I'm already looking forward to next spring for another objective close to town.