I keep on telling myself that this is it, this is the last day of rock climbing this season, and then catch myself touching rock again. Although I was working the last couple of weeks up at the Bobbie Burns, I got out for Thanksgiving weekend and could not stay away from the Lookout. Since I have climbed every single route at the upper Lookout already, Greg T. was very kind in giving me one of his projects, although he could have easily climbed it himself. "Burn one down" is a very good 12+ to the first anchors, which accommodates a sit down no hands rest. But after this, the extension is one of the best routes of the wall (how often did I say that now?), and I was blessed to get the first ascent on this one. The rock quality and the moves would fit really well to the lower wall of Acephale, like the upper part of Nemo. I think the grade of the extension is no harder than 12d, so two 12+ stacked on top of each other. I'm sure it will become another classic up there again.Simon and I had a great day on 3 brand new routes for us on Thanks giving Monday. First we bagged the first ascent of my new route left of Tetris, it's called "wasted on the way" and goes at 12-, slightly harder than it's right hand neighbor. Then we went downhill to finally visit the Echo Cave, where I was able to flash a partially wet 12c called "Morpheus". Juggy, overhanging climbing suits me and the route felt more like a 12b to me. For our last goal of the day we chose "Destination Unknown", which was really hard and awesome. Although only a few meters apart, the route has a completely different character than Destination, and since I'm not a good boulderer, it felt like a solid 12d. I would highly recommend this little subarea to anyone heading up to Atlantis wall, very unique climbing with unbelievable pockets for rockies standards. There is plenty of potential for new route development, so don't forget to pack your drill. Remember, those batteries don't get better sitting in your garage for a long period of time.
And then there is always the family, I know I have not been the best dad and husband lately, too much caught up in my own goals. I'll sure try to make up for this selfishness as soon the weather craps out for good ...does this sound like selfish again? But first I have to endure a 5 day first Aid refreshers indoors with the best weather forecast imaginable, oh would I love to go to the Ghost for a few days and do some of those grand multi pitch lines.