Sunday, June 20, 2010
Amazing weekend in the Rockies
Finally the rain gave away to some blue skies over the weekend. I was fortunate to climb 3 consecutive days with a verity of motivated partners and goals. Saturday I went to the Lake with Derek, Todd and Luka. I took it easy and climbed a bunch of nice elevens, Luka got to climb a few burns too, but the rest of the day he got to play hard with his buddies Lukas and Isaac.
Sunday I finally got the opportunity, a special thanks to Ladykiller Andrew Wexler btw, to red point the Full Scared Peaches, an old project of mine which I checked out a few years ago with Jeff Relph and instantly fell in love with. This line is probably the best single trad pitch I've ever climbed. Since I'm not much of a trad specialist though, this comment does not mean much. Nevertheless, this 45m line on the Air Voyage wall at the Back of the Lake is probably one of the best single pitch trad lines in it's grade, at least in the Rockies. The only downside of the route are the 4 bolts in the upper part, which sorta give a bit of a bitter taste to the upper part. Although they come in really handy when checking out the route ground up, they should be unneccessary on a "true" redpoint ascent, since the gear up there is adequate. Having said that, I should make this as my goal the next time I get a chance, I'm already shitting my pants thinking about it though.
Below a few impressions of climbers around us.